Casares: the white village on the crag, 15 minutes from the beach
From the apartment: 13 km, about 15 minutes by car on the MA-8300 up from the coast.
Casares is the village that gives the coast its name, and it is worth the fifteen-minute drive into the hills, where from the last bend of the road the whole pueblo appears at once: white cubes piled on a crag, the ruined castle on top and griffon vultures circling the cliffs behind. It is compact, steep and still lived-in, with a couple of squares where the whole village seems to meet before lunch.
Why go
- The view: the approach to Casares is one of the most photographed scenes in Andalusia.
- Authentic: tourism is light here, so bars and shops serve locals first.
- Combine it with the Roman sulphur baths of La Hedionda on the way back to the coast.
- Nature: the Sierra Crestellina above the village is a nature reserve with a large colony of griffon vultures.
What to see and do
The castle and the upper village
Climb through the lanes to the castle (Castillo de Casares), a Moorish fortress ruined after the Christian conquest. There is little left standing, but the walk up passes the old church of La Encarnación, now a cultural centre, and ends at the cemetery and viewpoints with the coast and, on clear days, Gibraltar and Africa laid out below. The climb is short but steep, so comfortable shoes are useful.
Blas Infante's birthplace
Casares is the home town of Blas Infante, the "father of Andalusian nationalism", born here on 5 July 1885. His house at Calle Carrera 31 is a small museum over two floors covering his life, ideas and the Andalusian flag and anthem he designed.
Squares, bars and viewpoints
Plaza de España is home to a couple of bars with tables under the trees, the church of San Sebastián and the tourist office. Try the local goat's cheese. Several miradores are signposted around the village; the one by the road below the castle gives the classic postcard view.
Sierra Crestellina
The limestone ridge behind Casares is a protected natural area with one of the largest griffon vulture colonies in Málaga province. A marked trail climbs to a refuge and viewpoints; even from the village car park you will usually see the birds riding the thermals in the late morning.
Baños de la Hedionda
On the road back towards Manilva, the Baños de la Hedionda are natural sulphur baths in a small Roman vaulted building beside a stream. Legend says Julius Caesar's troops bathed here. The water is cool, smells faintly of sulphur and is free to use, but in summer entry is by reservation in time slots to limit numbers. Bring water shoes and a towel.
Practical information
| Distance from the apartment | 13 km · about 15 min by car |
|---|---|
| Parking | Leave the car in the car park at the entrance of the village; the lanes are narrow and mostly closed to visitors' cars |
| Castle | Free, open-air ruins; steep 15-minute climb |
| Baños de la Hedionda | Free; reservation required in high season; between Casares and Manilva |
| Duration | Half a day including the baths |
FAQ
- Is Casares village walkable with a pushchair?
- Only the lower squares. The lanes are steep and stepped; a baby carrier is better.
- How long do I need?
- Two hours for the village, half a day if you add the Roman baths or the Sierra Crestellina trail.
- Are the Roman baths open all year?
- Yes, but in summer access is limited to booked time slots. Outside summer you can usually just turn up.